We hung out in our room until nearly noon, as our train didn't leave until 2:30. A little before noon we walked down toward the train station, then crossed over and took a walk along the river in León and saw one of the most beautiful parks we have seen so far. Take a peek!
At the head of the park we came to an American restaurant, and as we hadn't eaten lunch decided to have our noontime meal. Even though it was just after 12 p.m., the McDonald's was practically empty since meal times are about two hours past what we are accustomed to.
The train was to leave at about 2:35 p.m. and we were a little concerned about finding the right train and boarding, but as it turned out there were several pilgrims and a couple from Albuquerque on the same train. Two Italian guys and a girl from Mexico currently living with her mother in Spain kept us company until the train arrived. We discovered that one of the Italians had a passion for American country music and we sang up every country song on my iPhone, which wasn't many! So we threw in some Jimmy Buffet and some Blues Brothers and he at least knew the choruses. A fun time! Finally our train arrived and we boarded.
We had the most delightful visit with a couple of British ladies seated next to us, one of whom lived in Bristol and the other was living with her Jewish husband in Israel. What a fascinating visit we had. They were continuing on a bit further than we were, so we bade them farewell.
As we trained further westward, we entered the Spanish region of Galicia, whose capital is Santiago, so we were getting closer mile by mile to journey's end. We planned to arrive in Sarria, or 100 kilometers from Santiago, and walk the remainder of the way.
Just look at the beauty of the countryside we trained through as we followed the river to the west:
We finally came to Monforte, arriving about 15 minutes after our connecting train to Sarria was to have departed, but it too was late, so no worries. We climbed aboard for the 25 minute train ride north. A young American couple got on the train when we did, but they were having the most awful argument that she got up and moved a row in front of him. We hoped they weren't doing the Camino for their honeymoon!
When finally we arrived in Sarria, we got off the train. Our train car had the least number of pilgrims on it, but as the other cars poured their contents out on to the train platform, it was apparent the number of people who start the trek to Santiago here. Dozens and dozens and dozens of travelers, all with backpacks, all with the familiar seashell, most with walking sticks. Sarria is a town that thrives on tourism, and it is a series of restaurants, pensions, hostels, hotels and albergues, interspersed with coffe shops, grocery stores and everything else imaginable. We snapped our picture getting off the train and began to feel that we were within reach of our goal!
Despite it being such a tourist spot, all of the locals were so friendly. As the Spanish seem to have a penchant for not marking street names, we were forced to ask for directions. The gentleman we asked said we were on the right street, but our hostel just happened to be all the way to the end, about a kilometer away he said. Oh good, I replied in my best Spanish, we will be a kilometer closer to Santiago! He laughed heartily and replied, Yeah, you will only have 99 more to go! We crossed the little river that flows through town, and I haven't met one yet that didn't merit a picture or two!
We got all checked in about 7 o'clock, took a very short rest and set out to buy a few provisions, as we had been warned by our guidebook that it is mostly small hamlets for quite a distance, with few real stores in between. We had passed a fruit store with some of the most delicious, large cherries we had ever seen, and were determined to find it. But after walking to within a block of the train station, we realized we must have missed it. Sure enough, on the way back we did find it, but it was closed and the cherries taken out of the window!
But the walk had worked up our appetite so we decided to try the little restaurant downstairs. We had the most delightful server named Pablo, and he was determined to use his English so we accommodated. Where did you learn English, I asked. He was delighted to tell us that he played in a metal band and they mostly sang English songs. It was sometimes confusing learning it that way because he was tempted to reply to the Italian tourists "Bon Jovi" instead of "Buongiorno!"
As always, we were served a delicious pilgrim's meal, starting with a salad, then the main plate, followed by dessert. I had the pasta salad, and we both ordered grilled squid, which was brought to us on a gigantic charger which held enough food for four people. For dessert I had the cheesecake and Sharon had a banana. One of us had to be careful what they ate! Here's what my meal looked like:
When we looked at our watch, it was already 10:30, and as we had to begin walking early we made our way upstairs.
If the little hotel in the converted flour factory had impressed us with its jetted shower, our hostel room here far surpassed it! What is it about small Spanish hotels that they had to have such luxurious shower stalls? This one had not six, but 17 jets coming out from the side, including two just for the feet. Must give it a try before turning in!
Starting tomorrow we are also required to have our little credentials book stamped twice per day to prove we have walked the last two kilometers. We are making progress at getting it filled, and here is what it looks like so far:
Fifteen stamps already and how many more to go? We don't know, but early in the morning, right after breakfast, we will begin walking the final leg of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and hope to arrive there in about a week.
Buen camino!
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